Are you considering jumping into CPU mining? Maybe you’re already knee-deep in crypto mining, but you can’t resist the allure of adding new rigs. Whatever got you here, welcome to the newest chapter in my ongoing saga of mining builds — this time featuring a spiffy Ryzen 9 7900X. Why? Because apparently, CPU mining is super hot right now. Let’s talk about what goes into this build and how it performs!

We’ve got some discretionary funds after two months of mining, so it’s time to spend them wisely. Today’s mission: build a CPU mining rig that’s cost-efficient, easy to assemble, and hopefully brings in a steady stream of daily revenue (at least a buck or two).

Why Build a CPU Mining Rig?

Up until recently, I was holding onto most of the crypto I mined. But you gotta feed the YouTube beast, right? Plus, CPUs are kind of the perfect side gig for mining because they’re small, compact, and way easier to set up than GPU rigs. Let’s admit it, there’s something satisfying about a build that’s not drowning in cables and overheating GPUs.

Also, let’s talk numbers. A typical setup on a Ryzen 9 7900X can bring you about $1.50 to $2.00 per day while mining. No, it’s not buying you a Lambo, but it’s progress!

What We’re Working With

Here’s a preview of the parts I’m using for this build (and yes, all from Amazon because I lose my sanity trying to hunt for deals elsewhere):

We’re also throwing in your typical support components like a 500W Thermaltake Smart Power Supply, some leftover Grizzly thermal paste, and a small NVMe drive flashed with HiveOS.

There’s a lot of chatter about finding cheaper parts, and sure, you could scour Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist. But personally, I like buying new. You avoid flaky sellers, get warranties, and let’s not discount the joy of retail therapy.

Power Supply & Case

For this build, I’m running a 500W Thermaltake PSU. It’s not super efficient and costs about $40, but hey, it does the job. The ITX case we’re using is 3D printed because I may or may not have broken the original frame during filming (whoops!).

I’m reprinting the case, which gives me flexibility in design. ITX motherboards are so convenient, and the printed case keeps everything snug, especially when you’re working in a compact space.

The Build Process

CPU Installation and Thermal Paste Fun

First up, the Ryzen 9 7900X install went like a charm, except for my usual suspect: thermal paste. I’m down to the last bit of Grizzly paste from another project and hoping it’ll be enough for the 7900X. Spoiler: it was barely enough. But remember, it’s about proper application and getting that “smoosh” right!

I will say, when it comes to installing the cooler, my patience wore out fast. I didn’t read the manual (who reads those anyway?) but got it on there nice and snug. The Phantom Spirit cooler is surprisingly beefy for something that only costs $35. Highly recommend.

NVMe Setup for HiveOS

Next, we flash the NVMe drive with HiveOS using this super handy USB NVMe enclosure. If you’re still pulling motherboards apart to do a simple flash, stop doing that to yourself. Use one of these enclosures — literally cuts the hassle down to zero.

Once flashed, slap the NVMe into the board, connect all your components (PSU, RAM, cooler), and you’re pretty much good to go.

The Annoying Details: Power Button & Monitor

If your board doesn’t come with a power button, don’t panic. Instead, go old school and bridge the jfp1 pins using your trusty “knife” of choice. In my case, I’ve got an old Buck 102 that doubles as a tool and, well, other uses.

Now, here’s where the monitor situation can be a huge pain. Carrying a full-sized screen around gets old fast, so I use a Haiway 11.6-inch portable monitor. Small, USB-powered, and convenient for troubleshooting. Link in the description for anyone tired of lugging their regular screens around.

Dialing in Performance

Once the build’s up and running, it’s time to test the rig’s performance. Right out of the gate, we’re looking at around 84 degrees C on the CPU with default settings, pulling about 165W. Hash rates? Around 15.8 KH/s.

But here’s the problem: the original motherboard didn’t allow me to modify the CPU voltage. So, after some rage and more tinkering later, I swapped it for a Gigabyte A620I AX board, which gave me full overclock and voltage control.

Then, it was time to get serious. Tuning your miner is where things can get tricky — especially deciding between efficiency and pulling maximum revenue.

Tweaking for Efficiency vs Raw Revenue

I spent hours testing and running the numbers. My findings?

The real question is: do you chase efficiency or raw revenue? If you’re betting on the value of a coin rising, you’ll want to go for raw coins mined. More coins = bigger payday when the price jumps. But if you think a coin’s market price won’t move much, focus on squeezing every drop of efficiency out of your rig to lower costs.

Personally? I ended up settling for a 1v profile with a balance between revenue and efficiency. The temps stay just under 50°C in a cool office and should handle the summer heat without melting down.

Final Thoughts: Your Turn to Build?

If you’re thinking of building your own CPU mining rig, this is a fun and relatively straightforward project. Just don’t sleep on the tweaking process. That’s where the magic happens.

Also, if you’re into mining and haven’t already, go check out Rabid Mining’s channel. The guy knows his stuff when it comes to CPU mining settings, overclocking, and getting every ounce of performance out of this hardware.

So… Efficiency or Revenue?

Where do you stand? Are you more team “max coin” or “must save on power”? Let me know what you think in the comments.

If you enjoyed this build and wanna see more, hit that like and subscribe button. Until then, happy mining!